When my daughter started complaining about Chennai's nauseating stench of Coovum and the sickening pollution during her short stay here, I thought it was time for a quick getaway from the city. She rejoiced at the idea and immediately thought of Mahaballipuram. I proposed a trip to Kancheepuram. So we plotted together a road trip combining aesthetics and divinity.

The next day morning at 7am, we were cruising in a hired car on the Chennai-Bangalore highway No 4 via Sriperumbudur. It takes two hours to reach Kancheepuram and our first halt was Kamakshi Amman temple. The presiding deity there is Goddess Parvathi, worshipped as Shakthi. It has towering gopurams, pillared halls, mandapams and huge courtyards.

Our next stop was Kailasanathar Temple. The presiding deity being Lord Shiva, a huge Nandi facing the temple is the central piece of attraction. There is not much by the way of prayers or rituals and being under Archaeological department one can shoot pictures to hearts content.

When we heard about an unique temple to Chitra Gupta, the chief accountant of Lord Yama, we were eager to drop in. Here the presiding deity, Lord Chitra gupta, is seen sitting with a palm leaf in one hand and a writing instrument in the other. After offering our prayers we went ahead to see the Ulagalandha Perumal Temple.

Ulagalanda Perumal is an avatar of Maha Vishnu. Wanting to teach both Mahabali and Lord Indra a lesson in humility, he put one feet on Mahabali's head and the other reaching the sky - the abode of Indra. This was a message that He is the Lord of three worlds - hence known as Trivikrama Avatar.

Our next stop was Ekambareshwar temple. It is a huge temple and the presiding deity is Lord Shiva. After offering prayers we took time off for our breakfast at Hotel Saravana Bhavan after which we proceeded to Varadaraja Perumal temple.

The presiding deity of Varadaraja temple is Lord Varadaraja Perumal. The temple is huge with vast courtyards. The sculptures of golden and silver lizards carved on the ceiling are marvelous and it is believed that  anyone  who touches the lizards are absolved of all their sins. The hundred pillared mandapam and the four ornamental rings carved out of single stone hanging like chains are amazing pieces of workmanship.

Having finished the darshan of all the temples in Kancheepuram, we proceeded to Mahabalipuram and on the way halted at Tirukazhukundram. We had a quick darshan as it was 1pm and closing time. The top of the  hills used to be the haunt of kites for partaking the prasad of sweet Pongal offered by a priest at 1pm daily. The kites have stopped coming and so the number of people climbing the hill to view the feeding is lesser.

By 3pm we had reached Mahablipuram and the cool breeze soothed our tired bodies. After visiting the shore temple we made a short stop at five rathas, Arjunas penance and the light house. Having covered all the important places of interest in Mahabalipuram we proceeded to Dakshin Chitra along the Eastern Coastal Road.

Dakshin Chitra is a place where traditional south indian homes are showcased with minute details intact. One can experience the feeling of going through a typical Brahmin house in Thirunelveli or a Chettinad house or other houses showcased. The entry fee is Rs75 per person but the money is worth spending. They even have puppet shows, sound and light shows and exhibition by the artisans.

When we returned home at 5pm we felt rejuvenated. Though I was happy offering prayers at the temples, I felt sad over the crass commercialisation that  has taken over divinity. With few rupees thrust in  to the priest's hands one can find a place even besides the Gods. The temple premises are noisy and in some temples graffiti could be seen right near the sanctum sanctorium.


Many of the paintings and frescoes are badly damaged and cracks have appeared at many places. These are all pointers to the official apathy that has set in the management of the temples both by the Government and the devotees. It is sad that our sound decibels are high when we talk rhetoric about heritage, culture, etc., but we are the ones creating the same damage.

Important Information

Distance between Chennai and Kancheepuram  75 kms
Distance between kancheepuram and Mahabalipuram   50kms

Important temples in Kancheepuram: Kamakshi amman, Kailasanathar, Varadaraa perumal, Chitra Guptan, Ekambareshwar Temples.
Places of interest in Mahabalipuram: Shore temple, five rathas, light house, Arjunas penance.
Places of interest on ECR: Mayajaal,Dizee world, Muttukadu Boat house. crocodile park